The pattern making

The pattern is the genesis of a piece, its architecture. For each type of garment quality is a  type of pattern making involved. The pattern making step follows a precise and exhaustive measurement chart.

Bespoke patterns are handmade, the execution and the validation of a pattern is segmented in 4 basic steps: plotting, volume (cutting and shaping), fitting and correction.

At drawing stage, the style parts are drawn independently, which makes it possible to go very far in the adjustment and to treat each part of the body very precisely. In this technique, proportion rules are used which are influenced by the body volumes and the basic stylistic wanted to respect the conformation of the subject for which the pattern is made, a combination of freehand tracing and measuring tools are used in order to obtain the greatest possible precision degree.

The volume or cutting of the model is a complex step that requires a solid experience. The pattern is drawn on the material used and marked to affirm the draping of the piece. It is then assembled by hand therefore being modelled and shaped with the help of heat and humidity. Much of the work is also done at pressing where some parts of the room will be curved or restored to get the desired volumes and orientations. This stage marries the layout and the material.

Fitting the patterns will allow the template to be draped directly onto the subject to be accurately adapted to suit the different angles of the body.

Corrections will follow; The then 3d piece will be undone and back its  flat format. Changes will be made directly on fabric or on paper. If it is a base, the style will be made later, if it is a style, the corrections will follow on the final cut of the model.

Between feeling, aestheticism and mathematics, the pattern making of a piece is a process governed by traditional basic methods, but also very specific to the artist who draws it.