The art of taking measures
Taking measures is an art, the body being a raw canvas that the craftsman will work with to develop the best fit possible. This step takes a lot of precision and concentration.
The required skills to accomplish the delicate task are : a great 3D visualization ability, an analytic and meticulous mind. The subject being measured must wear appropriate clothes for measurement , a snug outfit and usual underwear, this is very important when it comes to measuring ladies as the bra form or padding can dramatically alter the measures.
In the making of a Bespoke piece, the tailor will need to take at least 25 measure starting with the horizontal measurements (circumference measurements). Heights (vertical measurements) will be taken followed by style measurements. A good measure taking is an analysis moment of the subject, therefore the tailor may have very few moments of conversation, given the fact that he (or she) is currently calculating proportions and ratios! Pictures will (should) be taken for future reference. Each year, measures should be updated, a fluctuating weight habit can be observed and the piece margins designed in order for them to be suitable for future alterations.
In a goal of passing on knowledge, Cinthya Chalifoux, master tailor and designer at House of Bespokenov, teaches how to measure and analyze morphology within a 25 hours class where students are introduced to the basic morphology types, disproportion between paper and fabric, the classic and bespoke taking measures as well as the correction on a living model.
A successful piece starts with good measures!